On The Emerald Edge

Burns Bay to Milsons Point

Saturday January 12, 2019

One of the great things about walking the shores of Sydney harbour is that there are so many entry and exit points. Linley Point is one of the smallest and most tightly-held suburbs in Sydney, tucked between Lane Cove and Hunters Hill, on the shore of Burns Bay. Starting the walk at Linley Point Reserve, within minutes I’m across the other side of the bay, climbing into Riverview.

The route takes me past St Ignatius College (Riverview), a grand old sandstone Catholic boys school which enjoys an absolute waterfront location and some of the most stunning views along the Lane Cove River. But once I reach Tambourine Bay, I’m alone among the eucalypts, with only a bush turkey and several thousand cicadas for company. With the houses concealed by the trees and the mangroves screening out the harbour, it’s hard to believe I’m right in the middle of suburban Sydney.

Waterfront real estate is too valuable to make it all available to the average punter, so the bush tracks regularly spit you out onto local streets. But it’s not all bad, because there are some stunning heritage houses here, as well as some impressive new additions to pass the time before the parks and bushland reserves open up the waterside vistas once again.

The bays are home to hundreds of yachts and launches of all shapes, sizes, vintages  and price tags, while occasional sandy beaches are stacked with dinghies and kayaks above the high tide line.

After Woodford Bay, I skipped Northwood, heading straight down to Gore Creek Reserve, where a game of cricket was underway on picturesque Bob Campbell Oval. Skirting the edge of the bay, I end up on the streets again, and head down Greenwich Rd, picking up the foreshore track again at Shell Park. This takes me Greenwich Point, from here there are outstanding views across to Cockatoo Island, and up the harbour to Goat Island, the Harbour Bridge and the city.

Just around the point are the Greenwich Baths, a netted enclosure with city views, where local families play on the small sandy strip or float in the gentle swell generated by passing ferries. This is surely one of the most picturesque bathing spots in this part of the harbour.

After heading back uphill past the oil terminal, I take a steep descent into the bush in Gore Cove Reserve, stopping to chat to a confident female eastern water dragon by the track, which ends at Berry Island Reserve. This was a traditional hunting, fishing and camping site for the local Cammeraygal people, and is now a well-equipped picnic area and an interesting bushwalk which includes historical information and some spectacular vistas.

A quick trek across the back of Balls Head Bay, and I’m tackling the long and steep staircase which abuts HMAS Waterhen, the navy’s mine warfare headquarters cut into the sandstone escarpment. From there, I head across Waverton park, through the back streets and into Sawmillers Reserve, the site of a sawmill from the late 1800s, which once again features outstanding and unusual views of the city and harbour.

Legs starting to weary by now, I head across to Lavender Bay, picking up the paved walkway which leads to Luna Park and Milsons Point. Suddenly there are crowds again – wedding receptions, dogwalkers, ferry-goers and thrillseekers. Back to reality, I head up the hill and under the bridgeto Kirribilli, where a welcome beer awaits.